Sunday, April 13, 2008

Charles Chocolates: A Real Life Chocolate Factory



Did I find the golden ticket? Hehe. I couldn't resist. Kicking off a weekend in the Bay Area, we took a tour of Charles Chocolates in Emeryville.


It's a brick-lined warehouse with modern accents. Large windows and skylights had natural light pouring in from all angles. There's the storefront, which was originally called the "Chocolate Cafe" (there's still a sign that says "cafe") in front, but customers started expecting sandwiches on the menu, so they changed the name to "Chocolate Bar".


One of my favorite items is the edible chocolate box. Talk about environmentally-friendly packaging. This particular box featured tea-infused chocolates.


"Tour" might not be the most applicable word, as it implies movement. It's more like a show-and-tell. Chuck Siegel (the "Charles" of the company) gave a talk about the company, then went into the kitchen to show us various parts of their operation. Instead of the group following him, the kitchen is walled with windows on one side and the tour group sits at a bar along the windows.


It's a little hard to see with the glare from the windows, but the kettles and pots represent their batch sizes. They don't have large vats and keep things small enough to be mixed (although they have industrial stand mixers) and moved by hand. To the right are the cooling tables, which can be hooked up to hot or cold water sources for a specific temperature.

They do almost everything by hand, with a little help from an enrober. Any I Love Lucy fans? Remember the episode where she and Ethel had jobs at a candy factory? Apparently, that episode was filmed at the See's Candy factory in L.A. This one doesn't go quite as fast.


After the tour, we had a tasting. Yum. We started with the passionfruit ganache in a bittersweet chocolate shell.


It was very good and the passionfruit was a subtle sweetening of the ganache. I don't prefer fruited chocolate largely because there's so much fruit flavor that it's an assault on the tastebuds. I believe the chocolate should always be dominant and it works here. We started with fruit and went on to fruited marzipan.


It happens that Chuck dislikes European-style marzipan, which is something like 60% sugar and 40% almonds. Too sweet. So, he reversed it, making almonds the dominant component. I can't say I disagree. I liked the nutty and sweet mixture infused with Meyer lemon. I love, love, love Meyer lemon and even liked it with chocolate.

Their fleur de sel caramels are one of the best-sellers. They make their caramel very dark and slightly burnt. The salt takes the edge off of the caramel and mitigates the acridity of the burnt flavor. Also, salt brings out sweet on the tongue by essentially fooling the tastebuds, leading to a powerful, but not overwhelming, burst of dark and rich sweetness.


The chocolate peanut butterfly was exceptional. It is a peanut praline, cooked dark and ground finely, mixed with more chocolate to create a strongly nutty and slightly crumbly mixture. As with the fleur de sel, a careful understanding of how salty and sweet work together bring out the best out of the nuts and sugar.


Last, but not least, was the caramelized almond cluster. Everyone and their mother makes this chocolate and I normally despise it. Why? It's a cluster of nuts dipped in chocolate. If the nuts are of a poor quality, then they're hard and/or flavorless. Otherwise, the balance is completely off, with the chocolate being a background player or the nuts being over-salted.

This particular nut cluster brought me back into the fold. They roast organic almond slivers, then coat them in a sugar syrup to give them a sweet crunch. Afterwards, the almonds are coated in chocolate. This results in a crunchy, not hard, cluster that's nicely balanced.


It's definitely worth a visit and the chocolates are to-die-for. We purchased a few of their chocolates, including two of the tea infused chocolates (jasmine and charcoal-roasted oolong... my favorite teas). From the bar, they retail for $54/lb. and for our order, it came out to roughly $1/piece. It's pricey for a 1 inch x 1 inch piece of chocolate, but the quality can't easily be topped.

Friday, April 11, 2008

Hanaya Sushi



Kim and I met up for lunch, hoping to try Island Boy Grille. When we arrived, Island Boy had closed. Since it was located in a strip mall surrounded by business parks and there were very few options, our choices were to leave or try one of the other eateries in the mall. We stayed and I'm glad we did, because we found a little lunch gem in Hanaya Sushi.

It's basic Japanese food. Bento boxes with various teriyaki meats and tempura. Noodle dishes like yakisoba. Some sushi, although I'll bet the turnover's not high enough to keep the fish fresh. We both had the chicken teriyaki/tempura combination.


Tempura's serviceable, California rolls well-made (i.e. the roll was tight) with lower-quality ingredients, and the salad fresh. The cup in front contained vermicelli and cucumber slivers tossed with a sweetened mayonnaise, which was a great little side. Edamame could have used some salt, but they were fresh.

The teriyaki's some of the best I've had anywhere. The sauce was perfect, very lightly sweet (unlike the goopy and overly-sweet sauces of a lot of other places) with the saltiness of soy sauce and the smokiness of the grilled chicken mixed in. I could even taste a little bit of mirin. The chicken was quite tender, pulled off the grill the moment it's completely cooked.



Two downsides: the teriyaki arrived cold, indicating that it was not made-to-order. The other was that everything was served on plastic, even for those eating in-house. I'm not a fan of high-waste establishments.

Otherwise, a great lunch joint and one that hopefully doesn't meet the same fate as Island Boy Grille. Kim did a little digging and discovered that Hanaya occupies the same space as Island Boy once did.

Wednesday, April 9, 2008

Dao Son



I have mixed feelings about this place, which bills itself as a Southeast Asian (mainly Vietnamese)-Japanese fusion. That alone is a little confusing, because Vietnamese and Japanese foods are opposites in terms of flavor and style. On one hand, the stir-fries are really good and has the taste and texture of a dish made with good wok hei. On the other hand, the soups are pedestrian: bland and uninspiring. My first visit, the soup was basically bouillon and water with noodles in it. It didn't necessarily taste bad, but I don't want to pay $5-6 for a bowl of hot water and bouillon. Figuring I had ordered poorly, I wanted to give Dao Son another chance.

We started with the fried spring rolls. They weren't bad at all. I prefer rice paper as a wrapper versus the flour-based wrappers, which are thicker. The greens were sparse, but fresh.

D.'s stir-fried rice noodle with chicken was really good. The noodles were perfectly done and the flavor was rich with onions, garlic, and pepper. The bean sprouts, Napa cabbage, peanuts, and carrots gave it a nice crunch. Wok hei is almost impossible to describe. Per the Wikipedia article, it truly is an "essence" and this dish was chock-full of it.

My shrimp tempura ramen was underwhelming. The ramen was a little undercooked, but I'd rather it be undercooked than overcooked and mushy. I believe the broth is supposed to be shoyu and mushroom-based, but it was somewhat bland.

The tempura were almost inedible. For one thing, they were almost 2-inches thick. Here's a cross-section. Talk about breading...

D. suggested the thicker tempura was made that way to absorb the soup, but when the breading became soggy, it was extremely mushy with a mouthfeel that borderlined on nauseating.

If I do go back, I'm definitely getting some fried noodles. They had a catfish and eggplant dish that also looked very intriguing. No more soup noodle dishes.